Childhood Memories: Durgan on the Helford River
Spring has officially arrived in Cornwall and this week certainly provided the goods in terms of blue skies and stunning Cornish scenery. Growing up in Cornwall, I spent most of my time exploring the Helford river; running through the fields holding my nan’s hands singing “the hills are alive with the sound of music,” and attempting to guide the family rounders game (where of course, we would always loose the ball over the cliff edge).
You don’t realise how good you had it until those times have passed. I count myself incredibly lucky to have spent my younger years making memories by the sea with the people that mean(t) the most.
Nothing screams Cornish childhood like clambering over rocks with a bucket and net in search for crabs to then be forced to sit down for five minutes to wolf down soggy ham sandwiches and an orange capri sun. In the evening, we would sit around the BBQ, lagged in after sun, giggling at the days events, wondering whether we would be able to find a bigger and better crab the next morning.
As children, our families ‘go-to’ beach was Grebe Beach, located on the Helford river and just around the corner from Durgan - a sheltered, National Trust shingle/sandy beach that looks like it should belong in the Mediterranean pages of Conde Nast Traveller.
Grebe beach is a safe cove, and I guess that was a big reason as to why our parents used to take us there. The mainland protects the cove so it makes for the perfect place to splash around in the water without the fear of strong currents. The beach itself is small, so it’s easy to keep an eye on any adventurous children that may have the tendency to wonder off (100% me as a small person). Please note: the tide was fully in, in these pictures - the beach is usually bigger with lots of rock pools!
As you can tell from the pictures, Grebe is a pretty idyllic spot. It’s quiet as a lot of people flee to the larger beaches or spots that offer places to grab a bite to eat, whereas Grebe and it’s neighbouring beach, Durgan, is a remarkably peaceful, hidden gem. It does lack in facilities, but you can’t have it all!
There is a short walk to Grebe beach and Durgan village. You’ll need to park in the National Trust carpark aka Bosveal car park (TR11 2BP) and walk through the woodland to the road. From there, you can take the first left which lead you onto the (steep) coast path to Grebe beach or you can carry on walking down the road until you reach the picturesque village of Durgan. The walk is about ten/fifteen minutes, but your efforts will be rewarded. Talk about quaint and unspoilt.
Strolling into the village is like taking a step back in time. With views across the Helford Eustury, Durgan village has a strong boating tradition and is home to just 15 properties, which are now mainly owned by the National Trust. Durgan is situated at the foot of the subtropical Glendurgan gardens that wind up through the valley. There is a slipway at Durgan which can be used to launch dinghies and kayaks.
A few days ago, my friend Paris and I decided to venture to Grebe and Durgan to see what had changed since I had last been there as a little one. Still as beautiful and tranquil as ever, just with the slight change that a tree trunk had fallen onto the beach - probably during a storm of some sort. Everything else was just as I had remembered it; the same view out onto the Estuary, the boats leisurely drifting past the cove and the peaceful tranquility of the Helford river.
Sometimes we never value the moment until it becomes a memory. Unfortunately our four grandparents are no longer with us but I will forever treasure those family memories looking for crabs and running through the fields as if the world was (is) our oyster.
Address: Grebe Beach, Mawnan Smith, Falmouth TR11 5JR